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When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.